Zero Waste Hair- Is it Possible?

Zero Waste is a movement that is sweeping the nation. The concept being that recycling takes too long, and that we need to severely cut down on the amount of waste we produce. Many of the commandments of zero waste include buying things unpackaged in bulk, as well as bringing your own container to groceries stores/restaurants and many other things. The list is endless, and the possibilities too. And so the question is, can we make hair zero waste?

To a certain extent- yes. You can make your own shampoo, and use only natural ingredients and put it in reusable containers. You can even carry that as far as your styling products as well. This is an option for some people but not everyone, keeping mind textures and needs for hair are different head to head.  I’ve had several clients who use only coconut oil to condition their hair and it’s the softest hair you’ll touch, but I’ve also had clients try that particular method and their hair became uncontrollably frizzy for a month. Often times these homemade concoctions result in a layer of product over the hair giving the impression of improved texture that will wash out the next shampoo without effecting the overall health of the hair positively or negatively. On the other hand not everyone needs heavy products that will change or penetrate the inner layers of the hair. I would talk to your hairdresser about your options or look for products sold in reusable containers. 

Easy switches like pomade or wax can be found in metal tins, and when all the product has been used, simply wash out the container and reuse! I have several of my old Davines wax tins holding togo homemade deep conditioners I sometimes give clients after a large process. I even spruce it up and add a drop or two of lavender or tea tree oil when appropriate.

As a stylist, I don’t normally recommend natural home remedies for most of my clients. This is due to a couple of reasons. Many of the products you will find sold in a professional setting have strange chemical names and may be frightening, but they have them in there for a reason, and the products have been tested for their particular use (see my list of brands that don’t use animal testing). Words like ammonium lauryl sulfate are scary, but they are in that product for a reason, not for kicks and giggles. On top of that, there aren’t many women in particular that I know who have completely natural hair, and unfortunately when you chemically treat your hair with any kind of frequency, the quality of the hair will generally suffer- but it doesn’t have to with proper home care. Finding products in reusable containers or at the very least recyclable containers is the easiest way to handle balancing home care with reducing waste.

In regards to getting your hair done, again it’s pretty hard to avoid the waste, but there’s a lot that can be done to reduce it. Chemically derived colors will always come in plastic tubes/containers, however talking to your stylist and letting them know what you’re about and the zero waste movement could help them find ways to reduce their own waste. Such as drying and reusing the gloves that they’ll wear to color your hair. Talk to them about thick reusable gloves, it’ll actually be cheaper for them in the long run anyways as well. I had a client whose hair I lifted, and then used direct dyes to deposit some beautiful bright colors. While I couldn’t let her keep the bleach filled foils, I did let her keep the direct dye foils used, and a couple months later when she chose to redo her color herself, she reused those same foils!

For haircuts you can talk to your stylist about having the salon compost the hair waste. Many stylists who rent are responsible for taking out trash/emptying hair bins anyways, and it could be as simple as dumping the hair into the green bin. If your stylist for some reason or another can’t compost the hair, you can bring your own bag or jar to take your hair clippings and compost them yourself. Human hair is not only good for the compost, but will also repel deer, which is great for anyone living on a farm, or near a park or reserve as deer tend to wander onto surrounding properties and can make quite a muck of things. So you’ll not only get some nitrogen rich hair in your garden, you’ll keep a pest (albeit a beautiful one) away from your petunias, and be saving the world from more waste! 

On more creative solutions- there are some interesting homemade colors I’ve experimented with, including a creating a temporary color using conditioner and lipstick (post soon to come!). The other options include henna- however the catch with this option being, if you use henna, you can’t bleach or put ammonia based color on top of it. Unfortunately those chemicals do not mix, and will result in severe breakage. As this blogger found out the hard way. But aside from that, henna is a natural way to change the color of the hair, and is easier to find in less packaging. 

As far as more Zero Waste hair solutions go, http://zerowasteteacher.com/ has experience with homemade products, and I’m doing experiments myself to find out more ways to reduce waste in the salon! It’s hard constantly trying to battle the capitalist regime that has pushed easy to use, pre packaged products on us like hungry angry babies, but every little bit counts, and some of these options are as easy as just changing up what companies you support. Email your favorite hair product companies and let them know what you’d like to see- less waste!

“My Journey To Natural” By Alexis Jenkins Vigil

With a mix of black and Spanish ethnicity, my curly fro has become my trademark ever since I went natural with the Big Chop by Pamela back in 2013. It is a decision I will never regret, however the journey to natural hair was quite bumpy at times.

Like many black girls, I had relaxers put in my hair as a kid so that it was easier to maintain. I was quite tender-headed and my mom wasn’t havin’ all the screaming and crying. Although the natural hair movement was growing, I kept up the relaxers through my early twenties, only admiring natural hair from afar and never thinking that I could pull it off. The courage to go natural actually came from my then-fiancé, now husband, who wanted me to give it a try. I studied all the methods – transitioning (the breakage points where the wavy roots meet straightened hair worried me), weaves/extensions (my hair is way to thin for that, I’d go bald! And not to mention the tender-headedness again…), wigs (the good ones are expensive!), and the method that scared me the most – THE BIG CHOP (cue the suspenseful music).

 

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Well, it turned out that shortly after our wedding we would be overseas for 11 months, so we chose to chop. In my mind, since I would be around people I didn’t know, it didn’t really matter if I had the worst-case scenario of 11 months of bad hair days. Pamela did my then-relaxed hair for my wedding in Florida, and then a week later I went to California where she cut it all off. I’m not gonna lie, I was scared. I cried that morning and hid my tears so that Pamela wouldn’t get nervous, tried to suppress my trembling during the haircut, ended up loving the cut, but knocked out on the drive home from wearing myself out with all the stress. I’m telling you, my hair has never been easier to maintain than that first month after Pamela cut my hair!

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While overseas for studies, I pretty much did wash-n-go’s and co-washes for the first couple of months and then blew out my hair to sport an afro. I hadn’t gone to a hair dresser the whole time while overseas, so when my ends got a little crazy towards the end of our trip, my husband and I attempted to trim it ourselves by twisting and dusting. Our trimming attempt was terribly uneven, but it did the job. When I returned to the US, I knew it was time to get a professional trim. As every black woman knows, finding the right hairdresser is a serious decision. As kids we hear horror stories of how some hairdressers will burn your scalp and ears, or cut your hair super short if they are jealous of your length (I don’t know if that’s all true, but it’s something I can’t un-hear). Also, we are VERY weary of “pigment-challenged” hairdressers. The ONLY white hairdresser I have ever trusted my hair with was Pamela, and that’s because she’s my sister. I figured she would be very careful to not mess up her big sister’s hair, and if she did, I’d remind her that I KNOW WHERE SHE SLEEPS and then I’d forgive her of course (haha just kidding Pamela). And you can take it from me, Pamela’s definitely got talent, I would trust my hair with her again if I lived in California! However since I live in Florida, the first thing I did was ask for hairdresser recommendations from family.

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My aunt goes regularly to a hairdresser named Jan, and I asked my aunt a lot of questions like, Has she ever burned you with a curling or flat iron? Does she work with natural hair? What topics does she tend to chat with you about? Jan came highly recommended, so I gave her a try, and have been going to her ever since about every 3 months to get my hair washed, blow-dried, flat-ironed, and trimmed. The first time I saw Jan for a trim, she asked how my hair got so uneven. I told her about our self-trimming attempt overseas, and she replied, “Wow, I see you guys had fun back here!” Fortunately, she got me all cleaned up and my curls are looking healthier and healthier each visit. Now that my hair is too floppy for a blown out afro, I’ve gone back to wash-n-go’s and co-washes for the curly fro look. Overall, I am very very happy with the decision to go natural, a supportive husband throughout this whole process, and the blessing of having great hairdressers on each US coast!

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Shampoo- Why?

A trend called the “no poo” has been circulating for a while now, and I’ve been thinking of how to approach the subject for quite a bit. On one hand, you have a slew of benefits from it, on the other, you have people complaining it made their hair worse, and the detrimental effects it can have on certain types of hair. There’s no simple answer (is there ever?) but the least I can do is break it down for everyone to understand what’s going on with their heads and the stuff that grows out of it.

Shampoo- first off, what is it? Shampoo cleans and exfoliates the scalp removing oils and other product build up. This is incredibly important for a couple of reasons, the exfoliation helps keep a healthy scalp as well as prevent dandruff and dry scalp, while shampoo* itself tends to have a pH of around 4.5-5.5, which is the hair’s natural pH.


Sulfates is a short hand term for sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, ingredients (in conjunction with a co-surfactant) that are generally responsible for the lathering effect in shampoo. In 1998 there was a study that supposedly linked sulfates to cancer, however that study has since been debunked. On that note- sulfates are not free of scrutiny. Sulfates are major pore cloggers as well as a common cause for dry scalp. 

However that isn’t to say that using a shampoo containing these ingredients will ruin your hair, if anything the worst that happens to most clients is that their hair will dry out a bit. Most people will have little to no problems from using products containing sulfates.


So what are the benefits of not shampooing? Your body does produce natural oils that are meant to be on your hair and on your skin. When you stop shampooing and only rinse the hair every so often with water, your body is able to regulate it’s oil production for what your hair needs. The oils that your body produce help keep the hair look healthy and shiny, often times though the initial first couple of weeks can be rough for people. It can take several weeks for the body to change it’s oil production, and getting accustomed to the feeling and habit of not shampoo-ing the hair are the hurdles that if you would have to jump.

That being said, after making it through that initial transition period, hair will begin to look shinier, over time you’ll find that you’ll have less split ends, and you’ll have successfully taken out step in your beauty routine.


In India, the first methods of shampooing were created by boiling several herbs together (such as Sapindus and dried Indian goosberry) and using the strained extract. Colonial traders in India indulged in a daily strip wash that included cleansing the hair and body massage- chāmpo (that’s where the name came from!) Upon returning to Europe they brought back these new ideas and called it shampoo.

Other early versions of shampoos derived from Indonesia, where the husks and straw of rice were burned to create an ash, which was then mixed with water to form a lather. Afterwards, the alkaline mixture would leave hair very dry, and so coconut oil was added to the hair to make it soft and give it shine.

Native American tribes in North America used extracts from plants as shampoo. Juniper berries were made into teas for skin problems as well as shiny hair, and it was even used on horses to give them a beautiful coat. The extract is actually still used in hair care products today. In Montana the  Cheyenne were known to use the wild mint plant as a hair oil, another group in British Columbia used the whole plant to create a hair dressing. Yucca was another plant used, but to prevent baldness and encourage hair growth. The roots would be soaked in warm water creating a wash.

The toddler stages of shampoo were actually quite similar to soap, stylists would boil shaving cream in water, add some herbs for shine and smell, and call it a day. The product we know today as shampoo was introduced by Proctor & Gamble in the mid 1930’s with Drene. The company even sponsored a variety show called Drene Times and claimed the new formula would silken hair.


So why the history lesson on shampoo? It’s important to know where shampoo originated; the cultures it came from are largely responsible for many of it’s European counterparts “discoveries”. Since the no-poo movement is brought up as being a way to go all natural, I feel it’s important to realize that we’ve been washing our long before there were synthetic formulas for it, and to note that we haven’t actually had shampoo for that long.

Shampooing varies person to person, I don’t feel that in todays world with the types of products that are put into hair, smog in the air, etc. that the no poo movement is an option for everyone. However aspects of it may be taken with a grain of salt- we as a society in general tend to over shampoo and over clean. We’ve become so hyper aware of our cleanliness that we have forgotten that our bodies produce sebum and other ‘nasties’ for a reason. 

To shampoo or not to shampoo? It’s up to you. But let’s stop calling it poo’ please.

*if the wording was not clear, many but certainly not all shampoos are a pH between 4.5-5.5

Sources

http://multiculturalbeauty.about.com/od/Natural/tp/Native-American-Beauty-Secrets.htm

“Agar RAMBUT Selalu Sehat”. Kompas Cyber Media. 2004-04-11. Retrieved 2007-03-26.

Rahman, History of Indian Science, Technology and Culture at Google Books, Oxford University Press, ISBN 978-0195646528, page 145

Khushwant Singh, Hymns of Guru Nanak, Orient Longman,ISBN 978-8125011613

Virginia Smith (2007), Clean: A History of Personal Hygiene and Purity, Oxford University Press, ISBN 978-0199297795

Victoria Sherrow, Encyclopedia of hair: a cultural history, 2006 s.v. “Advertising” p. 7.

“From Pert: Do You Wash and Go?”. Company Science Behind the Brands. Procter and Gamble. Archived from the original on 2007-02-16. Retrieved 2007-03-26.

http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_688587